The birthplace of ‘Fika’, endless summers and the legends of the Vikings

April was upon us, the weather was clearing and summer vacation plans needed to be made. As this is our first summer in Berlin, we decided to do away with the usual long holidays, and instead spend the warm weather exploring this city that we now call home - With the exception of a few nearby weekend getaways.

I was curious about the birthplace of FIKA, the land of endless summer sunshine, and the legends of the Vikings. As with all our holidays, we planned for one part History, one part Culture and two parts Good Food (and, a dash of music festivals if we can find it). 

The perfect recipe on Day 1 - Some history, some Skagen and a Music Festival

Our weekend affair started at the island of Djurgården, home to the city’s finest museums, with our first (and only stop) at the Vasa Museum. The museum houses the legendary ‘Vasa’, a warship built in 1658, that was discovered nearly 300 years after she sank on her maiden voyage - the sheer enormity of the ship and its exquisite craftsmanship is stunning. For those of you who are not ‘museum people’ (I get you), you can sunbathe on the manicured green lawns outside the museums, or cool off at the quaint bars on the shores of the bays snaking their way through the city. Stockholm is situated on 14 islands, so there are infact, many bays to enjoy that drink on.

The best part of going to museums for me, is what comes after - food (and drinks) to digest all that culture. The neighborhood of Östermalm just north of Museum Island is one of the most refined districts; great for window shopping, gastronomy, and endless people watching (my top favorite things). On our way, we stepped into the flagship store of ACNE Studios, a marbled splendor. The store was built on the grounds of an old banking institution, infamously known for the 1973 robbery and hostage crisis, that coined the term “Stockholm Syndrome”. 

A beautifully crafted pair of NoFo Platform sneakers displayed on the low marbled countertops managed to steal our attention for a few minutes before we headed onward to lunch. 

We had two recommendations from a local for this trip, and his first tip was a pitstop at Nybros, located in Saluhall, an old gourmet food market.

‘Would you like the lunch deal which comes with a glass of champagne?” our host asked. The words “lunch deal” usually reminds me of a sleazy cafeteria, but in the elegant Salluhall? I am all for it. Two glasses of champagne, and a few Skagens later (no, not the watch company), I was in heaven. ‘Skagen’, a typical smørrebrød (open faced sandwich Nordic style), was created by a Swedish chef after WWII, naming his invention after the Danish port of Skagen. It's a piece of warm rye bread decorated with clean concentric circles of freshly peeled shrimps, topped with a decadent mix of mayonnaise, dill and lemon accents, and a generous spoon of roe. The meaty shrimps pack a punch.

Satiated with the food and dizzy with the light buzz from the champagne, we called in for a power nap in our hotel in Nottingrattan before we headed for HIIGHTS - a music festival in an open air amphitheater within the Royal National City Park, just northeast of the city. It had been a while since an outdoor music festival, and why not see how the Swedes party? 

As we emerged from the subway, I couldnt help but wonder if we were on the right path - there was no one else. Typically at any outdoor festival, you always see crowds of party goers before and after, and rest assured you are on the right path. Thankfully after a 20 minute walk through the open fields of the City Park, I could feel the low base strumming through the air. More folks appeared, smiling with shimmer on their cheeks and dotted jewels over their eyebrows. Yes, we were in the right place. I forget, it's Stockholm - with a population of just 900,000, a crowd here is probably not akin to a crowd in Berlin, home to 4 million. 

After 5 hours and countless conversations with friendly partygoers, we headed back to the city with the melodic techno tunes of Kollective Trumstrasse still beating fresh. Our typical late night donor kebab after Berlin night outs was swapped out for a local burger and fries, and I was already thinking of what the next day would hold for me.

Our first Fika and a lazy day at SÖDERMALM - The neighborhood where its at

24 hours in Stockholm with no Fika stop yet, and Skeppsbro Cafe was going to change that. An artisanal bakery nestled right on the quay in Gamla Stan (old town) has fantastic views of the water. With a spot under the sun, I tore my eyes away from the liquid blue so I could squint at my beautiful cinnamon bun (“kanelbullar”) and my second skagen this trip. The warm bun was drenched with cinnamon essence, and alternated perfectly well with the zingyness from the fresh lemon accented shrimps atop my skagen. The coffee was good too. Well worth the wait for my first Fika. 

In any other city, such a serene location by the water, would have been awfully crowded, with trailing queues waiting for an empty spot to open up. But here, with just a handful of Fika-ers, the ambience was calm and no one was blocking my view. Maybe cities surrounded by vast water bodies tend to have an equanimous atmosphere, and now looking back, I realized this sensibility was evident throughout our trip.

After our Fika, we leisurely strolled down south to spend the afternoon exploring Södermalm, a gentrified neighborhood, evolved in recent years from a working class industrial area to a rich tapestry of cafes, galleries and boutiques. The energy in the neighborhood was palpable as we strolled around. The locals dotted the small parks, sunbathing on the freshly laid turf grass. Interestingly, we discovered the stores are open on a Sunday, presenting opportunities to while away time at Aplace, a concept store with carefully curated pieces from contemporary designers such as Henrik Vibskov and Han Kjobenhaven.

With the hopes of getting an early dinner table at Bar Agrikultur, a Bip Gourmand and Condé Nast recommendation, we brought ourselves to their doors as soon as they opened. Seated right away, we ordered two glasses of bubbly and planned out our staggered order of the seasonal tapas so we could immerse ourselves in one plate at a time. The grilled chicken skewers with caramelized cream, well-puffed cheese balls, and salt brined cucumbers topped with smetana and honey (their signature dish) were intricately plated, with beautiful textures and colors. Each plate had a unique flavor profile, but unfortunately none that beckoned a second visit, in spite of the wonderful service. 

The incomplete feeling as we departed the restaurant was quickly washed out with the sudden thunderstorm that ripped through the skies. We found solace at the Fotografiska museum, just east of Södermalm. The museum has several interesting exhibitions throughout the year and we spent several hours observing the brilliant works of Terry O’Neil, Andy Warhol and Somewhere Ethereal, an NFT Exhibition presenting the work of 6 digital artists. 

And you know what comes after some culture - my next meal. 

A medieval fare - Mugs of Mead, a Vikings Feast and a few cocktails of course

Usually skeptical of “tourist trap” experiences, I blindly trusted our second local tip - a  recommendation to dine at Aifur for the “full Viking experience”. Before going back in time, a quick 21st century cocktail at Pharmarium had my name on it. The gentle gurgles of the water fountain and my smooth lavender cocktail, garnished to perfection, added layers of tranquility to the charming Stortorget square, ironically known for the historical 16th century “Stockholm Bloodbath” episode.

“O ye originally from the far far east, from the land of Spices, India, now cometh from the cold streets of Berlin - Let us cheer these new faces in our land” bellowed our host, dressed in a brown tunic held together with a rope.

Our introduction at Aifur, was met by lively cheers and the thumping of heavy mead-filled mugs. Walking into Aifur, a vast underground tavern dimly lit with candles, I was transported back in time (or to a Game of Thrones set). The thriving medieval fare, interspersed with the mellifluous notes from ukulele was interrupted by boisterous curses from our host. “O ye, yet another people from the New Land - okay seriously, why are there so many Americans here?”.  We all laughed - it was July 4th, American independence Day and I guess there were more Americans than our host expected. The 2 visitors from “the New Land” were seated next to us at the long communal table, visitors who we soon discovered were from New York, our first home. We immediately lapsed into conversations about the City as we worked our way through the “Rurik’s Feast” - a wholesome platter of flapsteak, lambrack and Swedish Dwarf Chicken and root vegetables, which paired perfectly well with the cold Norrland Guld. 

While the meal was decent and hearty at best, it really is the loud raucous atmosphere of Aifur that leaves the best aftertaste. A wonderful and worthwhile one-time experience.

Saving the best for last - Sweet cardamom buns and skyline panaromas

Our last day in Stockholm called for an exploration of the northern part of the city, and a coffee at Cafe Pascal. The warm ambience highlighted by the gentle hum of early morning goers, the thick exposed brick walls, the smell of freshly baked bread, and ground coffee beans - Sometimes I feel “rustic” is overused to describe every coffee shop, but this is truly a charming rustic cafe. The energy carried us on an exploration of the Stockholm Observatory park right behind the cafe and the Acne Studios Archive. With selected designs from previous seasons on sale, the archive is a bit more down to earth than the flagship store, but with “easier” prices and the same quality, it is well worth a visit. 

We discovered the Rorstrandgattan, a pedestrian street dotted with restaurants and cafes, which also houses Lillebrors Bageri, our chosen FIKA destination before we departed. We opted for a Kardemummabullar (cardamom bun) instead of a cinnamon bun this time. The warm bun, glazed with a thin layer of sugar is heavy with the flavors of butter and cardamom. Don’t let the butter fool you - The bun is still light and melts on the first bite leaving a mix of spice and sugar on your palette. Without doubt, this FIKA stop was my personal favorite. 

Our second unexpected thunderstorm on this trip found us seeking shelter at Mellqvist Cafe nearby, which conveniently also happened to be one of our last bookmarks of the trip. As I eyed the other tables, the fresh tomato salad shiny with rubies of different colors, shapes and sizes caught my eye. Now surrounded by our hearty order of tomato salad with burrata, warm pizzas and excellent coffee, we just people watched - When I visit new cities, I often wonder how people I see walking around live their lives. It’s often a different story in my mind, but the few hours just watching strangers flit in and out while the rain poured down, they all seemed content. No one was running from the rain, just a regular pace - we had the perfect view. 

The evening ended with the views of Stockholm from Takpark - A rooftop bar with panoramic views of the city’s skyline. I saw the city from a height for the first time, and my god, it’s beautiful. The sea of matte black roofs contrasted the pastel shade buildings and the clearing skies above. The lazy arm chairs, undefined wooden stairs, the multiple intimate seating areas - all with a view of the skyline. Seemingly casually thrown around, but casual is an art in itself.  With a glass of sparkling water in my hand (not one for drinking before a flight), I leaned back against the ivy covered walls and just took in the warmth of the sun. 

Would I return? Ja!
A wonderful trip with a perfect composition of History, Culture and Food ika. That strike out was intentional - While the food in general might not have met my mental brief of piquancy, flavor and a gastronomic quest to come back, the Skagen and Fika interventions brought up the scores. Afterall, Fika is not just about the decadent buns, the sweet pastries, the freshly brewed coffee (and that is saying a lot). It is a state of mind, right? And that feeling of contentment is omnipresent. Be it when you have a clear view of the bays, when no one steps on your toes, when you can see how the citizens are living in the moment, the feeling is tangible. It protects the city, and as a result, our weekend affair was relaxed and lively at the same time. I will come back, but for now, I am excited to be heading back home. 3 summer days in Berlin, what must I have missed?